This morning we started early as we had to be at the train station by 8 am. So we decided to walk over from our hotel and have breakfast there (again we could not partake of the breakfast served at the hotel since we had to leave so early. The walk to the train station is only about 20 minutes but with our back packs we wanted to be sure to give ourselves plenty of time.
Once we got to the station we had to figure out a way to ensure we got on the correct train. Our first class tickets indicated the platform, car and seats. But as usual we were in Car 3 which meant we had to count down the cars from the Engine. Then we discovered that we were in the ‘cafeteria car’ and learned that the counting involves skipping that car. Who knew! At any rate, we finally got to our seats only to discover someone sitting there. I showed her our ticket and ‘no problem’ she moved. Apparently this is common, pay for an economy seat and then look for an empty seat in first class and sit down.
The 5 hour train ride north was interesting in that we had a really good overview of Greece’s countryside. There seems to be a lot of infrastructure development happening with new freeways and railway improvements. The train was very comfortable to ride on but we were in first class which has 6 comfortable seats in each compartment. Lots of leg room as well.
We arrived to Kalambaka to a light rain and clouds shrouding the ‘mountains’. It is hard to think of them as mountains as really they were like large fingers jutting upward. The mountains were really in the background. As we got off the train at the station we simply started to walk around looking for a hotel. We were not finding anything as we walked through the center square and wondered which street to walk through to find a hotel. Finally we asked a taxi driver if he could suggest any hotels. He did not speak English, but quickly got a lady from the bakery shop to talk to us. She suggested we go to Hotel Metoria and told us how to get there. What a great place it was. For 40 Euro we got a room with a bathroom and breakfast. The hotel was very quiet, clean and comfortable. It really felt more like being in a private home rather than a hotel. By the way, the breakfast was the best we have experienced so far on this trip.
Because it was raining we really did not feel much like hiking around to explore so we ended up having a late lunch and then relaxing in the room until it was dinner time. We both actually were exhausted and slept. The most interesting part of today was the late dinner. We went to a local resturant and ordered our meal. With the 'rain' it was chilly and the resturant had a fire going in the fireplace. We were fortunate to be able to sit beside the open fireplace and enjoy the warmth. Imagine our surprise when our meal was actually cooked over the coals of that fireplace right in front of us. I had Greek sausage and Wes had Souvaliki. We really enjoyed the atmosphere and the meal.
We got up on Tuesday and we had picked up our return ticket to Athens for today at 5:30 so we had all day to explore the Monasteries. To save us having to haul our backpacks around with us all day, the hotel offered to let us leave them and pick them up before going to get the train.
We headed out to walk a trail that would take us around to several monasteries, both currently active and a few no longer used. We started by walking from Kalambaka to Kastraki. We had a map showing the locations of the monasteries and which ones were open to the public on Tuesday. We had been told we could walk or get a taxi but figured we had all day so why not walk – even if the rain had continued in a drizzle form.
In every direction we looked we could see monasteries or nunneries perched on the top of a finger of land high above the valley floor. Our goal was to see how many we could manage to visit when we were walking between and around to them. Our map is not very detailed so we missed the first trail from the road but found a 2nd trail that took us up unto the primary trail leading to the monasteries. Of course it was not long before we found an alternative route that snaked through the country side up to the main trail.
We finally got to the first set of abandoned monasteries which reminded us a lot of the cliff dwellers places in USA. Literally the monasteries were created inside natural caves. In this particular area we found numerous abandoned monasteries located at various heights up the side of the cliffs. Wes wondered if they were built around the same time as the Cliff Dwellers in the US were building? Wonder how much similarities there are but not wondering enough to research it. One in particular had many flags flying which means it is no longer an monastery but it still has some significance for prayers.
We continued around and through the town of Kastraki looking for the first active monasteries in the Meteora. We arrived at the entrance (which is right beside the road if we had wanted to use a car) of St. Nicholas Anapafsas. We climbed the stairs to head to the top of the finger of a mountain. At the top perched like a nest on the tip of a tree, we entered the monastery for a cost of 2 Euro each. What fantastic views. Of course one of the views was of Kastraki but also we could see at least 3 more monasteries at the top of their own mountains surrounding us.
From this first exposure we moved on to our second choice. To go to this one, we had to hike up between two outcrops and climb. We got to the top and on our left we could see the Great Meteron Monastery and on our right was the Varlaam Monastery. Since the Great Meteron Monastery is closed on Tuesday we turned right and climbed up to the top of the mountain housing the Varlaam Monastery. Again we had a great time enjoying the tour and the views. We were not able to take pictures inside the museum or the church so there is nothing for me to show, but I assure you that every space of wall and ceiling had a painting on it. We wish we had someone to explain the stories being told in the paintings. Many of course we could guess but it would have been much more meaningful to hear the actual.
After we finished this tour we continued down the road to the Holy Trinity Monastery. As we walked along the road we were able to find many views where we could look across and see as many as 5 monasteries perched on top of their individual mountains.
The Holy Trinity Monastery was a large monastery with beautiful stairs to climb. Much work has been done recently on this monastery to improve the access but it had the most climb we had to do on stairs up the side of the mountain. We had noted at the St. Nicholas that they had installed an elevator for hauling up supplies. At both the Varlaam and the Holy Trinity we could see the original net and pulley system used but again they have more modern means now of bring up supplies. They all now have electricity and water/sewer systems in place. What we were amazed by was the methods used for hauling the nets up and the creative manner of the man powered winches used. Still I am not sure I would have wanted to be in any of the nets or baskets going up or down.
We met a couple for the Netherlands several times along the way today since we were on the same tour of monasteries. However, they were driving between each and we were walking. After meeting for the 2nd time at different monasteries they offered us a ride which was very nice, but we actually were enjoying the walking. By noon the rain had stopped and the sun even looked like it was going to shine through the remaining clouds. We declined the offer since we actually were enjoying the walk and really had nothing else to do for the day until the train was scheduled to leave. We questioned that a couple of times as we headed back down into the valley from the Holy Trinity since it was a foot path that had been ‘cobbled’. Now going down this path on rocks that were polished from use, somewhat covered by moss and leaves in places, was a slippery adventure. We however made it to the bottom of the valley and back into town without any mishaps.
In town we walked around and found the Holy Church of the Assumption of Virgin Mary.
Finally we managed to settle down at 3:30 for lunch and we had a really good lunch. I feel it is important to mention that if you ask for water a 1 ½ liter bottle of water if put on your table and you will pay for it. Wes thought he would have a cup of filtered coffee and he is still not sure what he got but it only filled the cup half and it tasted terrible. The Greek salad was excellent and I have been studying the makeup so I can prepare it when I get home. The main course was excellent as well. The cost with tip was 30 Euro but since this is our main meal we were comfortable.
Now we had to get back to the hotel, gather our backpacks and head to the train station to wait for the train. We stopped to pick up some hiking bars at the store which will be our main dinner tonight.
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